Holiday 2009: Parga in Greece

It was nearly a year to the day since I last managed to get away on holiday - my 3 week adventure in Australia which started this travel blog. A year is far too long to leave it for a break and didn't my body tell me that! Two days before I was due to fly out to mainland Greece with Martyn, my stress levels shot through the roof and forced me to shut down with two migraines in 24 hours. As much as I love traveling and exploring, the whole planning and stress of getting to places on time does get to me, and with Greece being our first holiday together I had become super worried about the trip - wanting it to be perfect etc that I had neglected myself.

We arrived in Preveza military airport early evening on Sunday 5th July with a temperature of 29 degrees, and as we stood waiting for the transfer coach to fill I couldn't wait for the following day to be relaxing on a beach in the sunshine. Our transfer was about an hour and on arrival to our apartments, the Alexis Studios, we offloaded our luggage in our basic but very clean room and headed to the taverna next door for a well needed nightcap. There is something about sitting outside under the summer night time sky with a nice cold beer, candle light and the sound of the ocean. We sat is silence for a few minutes taking in the moment, feeling happy and together, away from the stress of life back home. All was perfect until, after a large Mythos and a Metaxa brandy, I lost my vision as another migraine took hold. I felt gutted. I had to wait for my vision to return and after twenty minutes, Martyn lead me back to the apartment and into bed but due to the intake of alcohol I couldn't take my medication and spent the whole night with the worst headache and sickness I have had for years. Not the way I wanted to start my holiday.

But less about my troubles, and more about the location: Parga town is built into a sheltered bay with pretty buildings and a calm harbor with small fishing boats. With the stunning clear blue Ionian sea providing a naturally beautiful coastline with olive trees growing abundantly across the area. Our apartment was a 15 minute walk down through the pretty Greek buildings and shops that gave a real sense of traditional Greece. At the top of the town stands Parga castle; a Venetian castle now in ruins on a headland which divides the town with Valtos beach providing two sheltered beaches.

On Tuesday morning we walked up to the castle and wandered around it's ruins before the sun got too intense. The sound of crickets deafening but a real sense of tranquility as we explored the castle, climbing to the highest peak for a stunning view over Valtos beach. We walked through old rooms and down passageways which gave a sense of importance that the castle once held.

During the week, we spent the majority of our time on the beach relaxing in the sun, floating on inflatables (which were given to us) eating lazy lunches and reading books. On the evenings we headed into Parga town for some traditional Greek food (although Martyn missed his traditional dinners but he was happy with the mountains of kebabs and souvlaki) We ate dinner with George and Sally, a lovely couple from Bristol we met at the apartments. One evening and Sally and I shared stuffed vine leaves, spinach and cheese baked in the oven, Greek salad and spinach pies - delicious! The evening ended with a burning metaxa brandy which once cooled and the fumes gone was so sweet - perfect nightcap. It was a bargain meal too at 50 euros for 4 of us which included two rounds of drinks.

On Friday we went aboard the Vicky F boat and took a trip to the islands of Paxos and Antipaxos, the trip was a little bit of a disappointment in that it didn't live up to the expectation of what had been promoted. The boat stopped at the beautiful beach of Voutoumi at Anti Paxos where we all jumped over board to swim in the crystal clear turquoise sea (although apparently I belly flopped into the sea creating a big slapping sound. I thought I had dived so elegantly - even holding in my Greek food paunch!) After 30 minutes of swimming we went to the Blue caves on Paxos, I say we went there - we thought the boat was going to steer into the cave and crash. The captain of the boat left it a little too late to reverse leaving everyone a tad uncomfortable. So other than going in and out of the caves a couple of times, we didn't really see them. Next stop was the main town on Paxos - Gaios which is a pretty traditional Greek town but very much a 'honey pot' area so the cost of food, drink and the little trinkets was very expensive. With up to three boats full of tourists turning up every day with 3 hours to spare, it is bound to be but it ruined the atmosphere of what should be a relaxed waterside town. It was so hot so after a quick stroll around the back streets looking for hats and presents, we rested our burning feet and sat in a cafe in the square for a beer and a gyros whilst people watching. Before we got back on board the boat we made sure we cooled down with a ice- cream at the harbor and a spot more people watching.

This holiday was meant to be a chance for me to be a little more adventurous and we had talked about doing some water-sports and a few activities but it didn't really work out that way which I was a little disappointed at but at the same time, my migraines proved that I needed a relaxing break with time to sleep and chill out. We did buy some snorkeling gear and I learnt how to snorkel (i had never done this before!) Although we weren't near any reefs to see amazing fish and bright coral, I did see a few pretty fish and with the water being so clear it was nice just to float around underwater (I was conscious of keeping by bottom below the surface as had visions of sunbathers on the beach just seeing a huge arse floating in circles around the bay!) I was able to see my name on the bottom of the sea too following Martyn writing 'JO' in pebbles on the sea floor. Very sweet and found myself searching for it most days. I wonder how long it will stay there.

The other adventurous activity we did achieve is the hiring of a scooter/moped to explore the town on. After getting over the safety aspect - no helmet, wearing flip flops, bear legs and arms I managed to get on the back and enjoy the freedom of being out and about. We ended up having to change the first one due to having an old guy shout something that sounded like 'lastico.. lastico' at us as we made it up a steep hill. It turned out we had a flat tyre (not the elastic of my bikini stuck in the wheel which is what I first feared) Once we changed bikes, filled up the second with fuel and found the right road to be on (we ended up down a gravel road and being chased by hornets) we were riding along the coastal road through the mountains with amazing views of the sea, villages and countryside. On a few occasions I had to scream to slow down, my body tensing at the speed - which was about 40 mph! as we went down a hill. We found a beach at Arillas which was a quiet sandy beach where the tide was out and the water a welcoming warm temperature. After about an hour we headed back up the winding steep road onto the main road in search of Sarakiniko beach which is where you could visit using a ferry service from Valtos Beach. Again, after a hairy ride down mountain roads we arrived at the beach around 4.30pm in time to see the ferry leaving the choppy waters. Due to the location of this secluded bay the sea is usually quite choppy creating crashing waves and huge white horses - one of the reasons why Valtos Beach is so calm. We had a soft drink and some Greek tapas in the taverna as we watched the sea and the sunbathers and the group of children on the ferry jetty trying to stay upright as the waves hit the side. It reminded me of something out of Total Wipeout. We were both pleased that we decided to hire the bike - both feeling a sense of freedom and release on the mountain roads. It is something I don't think I ever thought I would do so thank you Martyn for encouraging me. Maybe it is something I should have added to my list here. Anyway, I achieved it and it was fantastic.
Parga was a beautiful town and a idyllic place for a holiday and getaway, there were plenty of Greeks holidaying in and around the resort - always a sign that an area isn't too commercial! And as a first holiday with Martyn, we discovered new things about each other - more likes and dislikes and had a lovely relaxing time together.

Coming to the end.....

It is Thursday lunchtime and I am sat at Port Mac, it is raining and cold. Em and I had hoped so much that these last few days would be sunny and that we would spend it chilling on the beach - topping up our tan before we both go home. Instead we are chilling around the house and eating lots. Yesterday we went into town (not before I had a proper wash in Ann's spa - I swear my tan was dirt, how good it felt to be clean!) and bought a few bits and pieces to take home - mainly food as there seems to be lots of chocolate and sweets that we don't get back home. In the evening, we had a lovely roast lamb dinner (with lots of veg!) and crashed out watching a DVD. It felt strange not to be doing something, not packing for the next day, not planning where we are going, what time and what we were doing.

I have had the most amazing time on this trip, I have pushed myself and done things I never thought or dreamed I would. I feel that I have found me again and that I know what I want from my life. I have met some amazing people; all with stories and reasons to be so far from home - some for adventure, some to escape and some just to just live a better way of life. Em and I sat and looked through all our photo's yesterday and I felt sad, it seems ages ago we started in Sydney and since our Great Ocean Road tour, which was def. the best tour of the trip - the tour guide was brilliant, the group of people were fun and interesting and we all got on, but above all we did so much, saw so much and as a group worked together. It was only 3 days but it was so much fun, I hope to keep in touch and find out how everyone else's travels continue. I feel sad that mine has been so short - 3 weeks isn't nearly enough time, but saying that we have covered over 20,000km and done more than most in 3 months!

I am so pleased that I set up this blog, without it I wouldn't be able to tell anyone what I have done - I haven't known what day it is most of the time! I want my trip to continue, but I want the people I love to be here with me too. I feel tearful at this is almost the end.

This is probably the last post on here, today as the weather is bad we are staying in - possible going out tonight, and tomorrow we have a 4 hour drive to Sydney. We are staying with Em's friend and having a big night out in Sydney - We haven't had many of those, don't feel we have danced or partied enough - mainly due to being stuck on a campsite in lots of layers most Friday and Saturday nights anf being in towns on a Monday and Tuesday where everything is dead.

I have loved spending so much time with Emma, in 18 years, nothing has changed, we have never struggled for conversation and had no uncomfortable silences - just comfortable ones, the ones you only have with people so close - soul mates. We have laughed like we were 10 again, we have talked about growing up and shared a lifetime of stories and experiences, we have read it other's mind (freaking us both out!), we have been stupid not caring what people think, we have been the party people on tours - the entertainment, we have huddled together to keep warm, we have eaten the worst food but above all we have had so so so much fun. I wish I had done this sooner, I wish I hadn't have waited so long.

My memories will last my lifetime, but, I hope to come back to Australia for phase 2.

I have so much inspiration for writing and painting - my experiences and adventure will keep me going for some time.

Thanks for reading, miss you all and see you soon. xx

Byron Bay

On returning from our Fraser Island Trip on the Sunday, we got back into our hostel in Brisbane and headed out for some dinner, we found Jo Jo's and had a delicious Thai dinner - very welcome after the weekend's tour and lack of food. We didn't call into the bar on the way home - we were still covered in dirt and sand so opted for an early night so we were fresh in the morning for our return leg back to Sydney.

On Monday morning we picked up a car (after carrying all our luggage across Brisbane - 'couple of blocks away' - I don't think so!!) By 11am, we were on the Pacific Highway heading for Byron Bay. The sun was shining, the tunes were on - we were Thelma and Louise, we just needed to find our Brad Pitt on the side of the road!

The Pacific Highway runs down the Gold Coast, through Surfer's Paradise, Miami and Palm Beach, we stopped to have a look at the beach and the surf - everything looked so alive.

We arrived in Byron Bay around 2pm and we parked up alongside the brightly coloured camper vans and headed into the town for some shopping and a bite to eat. The beach was picturesque with the lighthouse standing proudly on top of the hill.

There was always going to be something special about Byron Bay - I was told by the clairvoyant I saw years ago that I would go and it is special - I have a connection! As soon as we started to walk around the town I could feel it - I could live here! Everything was so relaxed and in the sunshine the colours of beads, art and beautiful materials dazzled. The town was full of backpackers and travellers with artists painting in the street - I felt inspired. We stopped and had a bite to eat and a milkshake in a cafe before heading up to the lighthouse to watch the sun set. It was what I had been waiting for - the colours of the sky as the sun said it's goodnight were beautiful, it made me think back to Ayers Rock and how I had hoped that the sky would be as vibrant. The sun seemed to set so fast; if you blinked you missed a flash of orange or the glowing pinks.

As dusk continued, we headed down the hill and drove to our hostel - my eyes were on the sky the whole time. At one point, a flame of fire seemed to be engulfing the sky, you could almost see the flames lapping at the sky, a few minutes gone and the flame was calm, hot coals warmed the sky.

Our hostel was basic but in a beautiful setting - just 300m from the beach. We changed, grabbed a beer and headed along the beach in the moonlight back to the town. Although we couldn't see anything, we could smell incense as we walked indicating that people were sat watching the night sky. In town we had a couple of beers and grabbed some food to take back and eat. Nothing seemed to be happening in town so it was another early night.

Tuesday morning we woke up to a blue sky which meant we could fit in some sunbathing - something we hadn't done pretty much all trip due to the cold weather, but we were only given a couple of hours before the wisps of cloud became thicker and hid the sun from us. So, we walked along the beach into town for a spot of shopping before leaving Byron Bay in the evening.

I couldn't put my finger on it - maybe it was the expectation that something would happen at Byron, but it was special and if I moved out to Oz, it would be my home. (Em and I have already decided what we would do here - the shop we would run!)

We left around 4pm and got back onto the Pacific Highway for Port Macquarie - the town where Em's parents live, and our home for the next few days before I fly home on Sunday. We passed the Big Banana at Coffs Harbour (not that big though) and the Big Shrimp in Ballina - neither of them compared to the Big Sheep though.

After a 4 hour drive we arrived at Port Mac around 10pm, where Ann served up a very welcome dinner. It was really good to see her (we had briefly seen Melvin in Ballina as he was working and staying there) I crashed into bed with the thoughts of my holiday and amazing trip being nearly over.

Fraser Island Part 2

So, following on from where I left yesterday....

We got back to our camp on the Saturday night where we were staying the night, we had picked a tent earlier in the day, except the best ones had all been taken. So, Em and I ended up with the crapest tent on the site - not only did the bottom not zip up but it was on a 45 degree angle. We tried to pad it out with as many foam mats and sleeping bags but could see that we were in for an interesting night.

We cooked ourselves dinner and once again sat around a campfire. This tour wasn't as good as the others, people kept themselves to themselves - the french with the french, irish with the irish, Em and I ended up playing cards over a couple of bottles of Coopers Ales. Our tour guide, Adam, brought out is guitar and played some Ben Harper and such - he was good. One of the Thai girls played a beautiful tune but is was ruined by the group of Irish girls from the other group who insisted on playing 'TUNES' from the car. Under the night sky and with the warmth of the fire I know what I preffered. Em and I admitted we were nana's and headed to bed, only to lie in fits of giggles, to the extent I thought Em would have a asthma attack due to the insane angle we had to sleep on.

We were up early, the dew on the grass steamed in the morning sun, we fumbled around in our tent trying to get ready and then headed out to the bakery for breakfast.
We then headed into the Rainforest for a walk and drive - we saw a Scribbly gum tree which was beautiful - the caterpillers eat the gum and create scribbles down the tree in a graffiti fashion. We also stopped at a Satinay tree which was enormous in circumference at around 500 years old - some testament to how hold the sand island is and how it has survived.

We then made our way in the bumpy 4WD through the forest to Lake Mackenzie - a beautiful turquoise lake with white fine sand in the middle of the island, although when we saw it everything looked so dull under the imposing grey clouds. The sun shone for a little while and we managed to snooze on the beach - well I did, Em was more interested in the group of guys playing rugby on the beach! After an hour on the beach we went back to the camp for some sarnies before loading the trucks up and heading back to Brisbane.

I wish we had picked another tour or had another guide - the island was so beautiful, the colours, sounds and feel of the finest sand - I don't think we experienced the best of what was on offer. Our group was also a little more refined than previous which put a dampers on the fun and getting to meet new people.

Fraser Island Part 1

On Friday morning we were up early to leave on a tour of Fraser Island - the world's biggest sand island which has a 70Km beach and rainforest.

We met the group at the Transit centre and headed on a 3 hour drive in the crampest of 4 WD vehicles. I thought it would have been more comfortable if I was smaller. Much smaller.

Our guide wasn't the best of guides - captain charisma was his name we assigned to him. I think he was a Bob Marley wannabe. He had been in Oz for 4 years but his Somerset tone was still very evident.

We got to Rainbow Beach which is named so because of the coloured sand - a bit like Alum Bay on the IOW, we had a hour or so to laze around before we got back into the car and headed down the beach. The beaches are highways so it seemed strange to have lots of cars doing 120K down a beautiful golden beach, the ride was bumpy! We caught a ferry over to the island and again continued down the beach, we managed to see some humpback whales in the distance and a wild dingo which crossed out path. We stopped at a ship wreck and a natural spring creek which we all waded down in the sunshine. From here we went to Lake Wabby, a lake in the middle of the sand dunes - it was a long walk but the views were amazing, there was so much sand, fields and fields of sand. I hope my photos do it justice. It was a long and hard walk and by the time we got the lake the sun was going down so the colours weren't as vibrant as I had hoped, we had about 5 minutes before we had to turn around and come back again.

(running out of time so will update day 2 on fraser as soon as I can ) x

Brisbane & Koalas

We arrived in Brisbane, or BrisVegas as it is known on Thursday evening after a day of flying from Alice Springs to Sydney and then to Brisbane. I can't imagine how many miles we have covered, if I am not sat on a plane, I am on a bus or a train.
Brisbane is full of backpackers and mostly English ones which made a change. So many stories and dreams being fulfilled.
On Friday we went to the Lone pine Koala sanctuary and oh my goodness, how sweet are they. I imagined that we would be looking at them from afar, but they were all on the other side of a small wall, we could have reached out and touched them. They looked so snuggley and happy, I have many many photos - there were simply too many to ignore. We paid to have hug with one also - we had to hold out our hands and let the Koala sit on them whilst his arms held onto our shoulders, he seemed happy enough munching on his eucalyptus (?) We then found my favourites - the wombats, they are beyond adorableness, so big and clunky, fat and hairy. So so so so cute. After having a disturbing lunch (the picnic area was surrounded with turkeys that kept coming too close and trying to eat my soup!) we bought som 'roo food and went into the paddock to feed the kangaroos - they were very tame and happy to eat off our hands, I felt sorry for the little duck with the bad leg who despite not being able to walk, insisted on following people with food around.
We had so much fun looking at the animals and the Lorikeets (beautiful bright coloured birds), Australia really does have some cute animals. I wasn't able to smuggle a wombie out though.

In the evening we stopped for dinner in an Irish pub before heading back to the hostel and it's lively bar for some more beer and a boogie.

Uluru and Kata Tjuta

We have just come back in from our two day tour of Uluru (ayers rock) and the national park in which it sits. We left early yesterday morning and got to see the sunrise whilst we were on our 5 hour drive to the park. The colours were amazing. In fact, this whole tour has been all about colour, I feel my eyes have had sensory overload. Firstly, once the sun is up the colour of the green trees against the bright red sand and the pale bark of the gum trees. The sky awakening through a prism of pinks to blues to yellow.
We made a couple of stops for refreshements which was well needed - the mornings are so so cold, I am starting to wonder whether I will see any proper sun here and whether I will come back with a tan. We saw dingos, kangeroos and emu's at a farm along with camels.
We got to our campsite at lunch and all prepared lunch together, we then headed over to the Olgas and Valley of the Winds for a stroll around the red rocks, the views of Uluru teasing us in the distance. We headed out to watch the sun set around 5.30pm to the view spot and watched as the sun disappeared highlighting the rock in pinks and oranges. It all happens so fast when you are watching and waiting. Once the first few stars came out we headed bback to camp for a BBQ, we lit the campfire and sang a few songs and toasted marshmallows (I am known as a pro at this!) We had the opportunity to sleep under the stars, which Em did, but with a thick cold, I thought it best that I get some warmth - well, some level of warmth - it was still freezing.\
We woke this morning at 5.30am, and I took a moment to watch the sky - so many stars, I could almost see the dust particles. I saw a few shooting starts too and made out some of the constellations - truly beautiful - I won't forget that night sky.



We then headed out for the sunrise, which I was left a little disappointed with. I hoped for more; there were lots and lots of people and noise - I wanted to be alone to watch the rock come alive in the sunlight. Again the sky wwas layered with powder blue and baby pink colours, something quite magical. I hope my photos have captured the colours well enough.
Once the sun was up we went for a walk around the base of the rock, I found the rock strangely eerie, a odd vibe to it, some strange looking features, but the colours were vibrant and the rock looked like it had scales or bark.
I am not sure how I feel about the tour, I expected more, I wanted more. Maybe it is because I am not feeling well and I am tired.

I think I will try to write about it again once I have my photos and I have my brain back. I do feel inspired to write about it and the artwork of the Aboriginals. Until next time... we fly to Brisbane tomorrow and hopefully to the sun.